LCF24: Intimates is putting the flirt in fuller-bust
- Written byLubna Hussain
- Published date 15 July 2024
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Every graduation season, London College of Fashion’s Undergraduate Showcase promises a new roster of impressive final projects, and this year’s graduating cohort has ensured that the UG24 Showcase is no different. The showcase will comprise work from every undergraduate course, including Ellie Gabbut’s final project for BA (Hons) Fashion Contour: BLOOM Intimates – Floral Fantasy.
We sat down with Ellie to discuss the work behind her flirty final collection, the importance of fuller-bust lingerie, and what’s to come for the emerging lingerie designer.
Hi Ellie, can you please give us some insight into your background before arriving at LCF?
My auntie has always worked in the fashion industry, and she just completely inspired me. When I was around 14, I had work experience with her at Debenham headquarters. It completely sold me, and from that moment I knew I wanted to go into fashion and womenswear. I went on to do a BTEC Diploma in Catwalk Fashion, so it was all wacky and weird rather than commercial. This BTEC came from a UAL Body so I applied to London College of Fashion, but I never thought I’d get in. It was COVID, and that meant my portfolio was lacking. But somehow, I made it in. I’m a homebody so throughout the course, I’ve stayed in the Midlands and commuted to London throughout the week.
Your final project, BLOOM Intimates looks amazing, can you tell us more about it?
This collection is made only for double-D plus sizes, designed for a youthful market. The idea is well-fitting underwear that’s also pretty. It comes from a personal passion as someone with a smaller back size but a larger cup size, I’ve found that there’s never anything trendy, youthful, or even colourful in the market. This collection started by taking inspiration from my favourite youthful brands and putting this with the technical aspects of a comfortable, everyday double-D plus bra.
BLOOM Intimates also consists of intimate sets, because I found that pretty full-bust bras hardly ever come with a matching thong or suspender belt. I wanted to offer full sets that are pretty and delicate.
So, BLOOM Intimates fills fashion’s gap of complete lingerie sets for fuller busts?
Exactly. It’s really difficult, especially for those with small backs, as you're banded with the larger cup sizes and put in awful fabrics and thick straps. It seems like no one considers the tiny, pretty little details.
I think in the market, they're so worried about the balance of a small knicker and a big bra, which can be offsetting, but that's what people want. There was such a massive gap in the market, especially for colour. Once you get to the larger sizes, it’s just black, white, and nude – perhaps an occasional dark green.
I also wanted it to be comfortable. Although lots of bras can be bought in a Double D size, the designers hardly consider what makes larger cup sizes comfortable specifically, so they’re unwearable day-to-day.
You’ve talked about having the English countryside as our inspiration for this collection. This landscape doesn’t necessarily overtly connote sensuality. What drew you to this inspiration?
I'm so immersed in it. My lecturers told us that projects come off well when they come from a personal place. I literally live in the middle of nowhere in the tiniest town, so florals and wildflowers came naturally. I just took exactly what was around me.
Sexy is the wrong word for this collection. Flirty is more accurate. It’s meant to be pretty and fun. Desirable, but in terms of self-confidence rather than sexuality. The pretty colours of the countryside brought a calm softness.
Do you have any plans, hopes, or aspirations now you’ve entered post-grad life?
Tough one. I certainly want to continue in lingerie, I've absolutely loved it. I’ve found what I like and don't like about it, it's such a cool niche. As for right now, I’m looking for a job in the industry, but I’ve had the most insane feedback from this collection, and I've toyed with the idea of starting something myself. Recently, I had a really cool meeting with the largest embroidery company in the world, who would like to aid in starting something up. But first, I might have a break from doing my own thing and go into the industry. I'd like some experience in the real world first.
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