![green and yellow painted fabric](https://ual-media-res.cloudinary.com/image/fetch/c_fill,f_auto,g_auto,q_auto/w_auto:breakpoints/https://www.arts.ac.uk/__data/assets/image/0014/452030/web-shen-gao-2.jpg)
LCF24 MA Fashion Textiles Technologies: we speak to graduate Shen Gao about her final collection inspired by floral motifs found on the traditional dresses of Qing Dynasty
![colourful embroidered fabric](https://ual-media-res.cloudinary.com/image/fetch/c_fill,f_auto,g_auto/https://www.arts.ac.uk/__data/assets/image/0021/452037/web-shen-gao-7.jpg)
- Written byLondon College of Fashion
- Published date 02 October 2024
![colourful embroidered fabric](https://ual-media-res.cloudinary.com/image/fetch/c_fill,f_auto,g_auto/https://www.arts.ac.uk/__data/assets/image/0021/452037/web-shen-gao-7.jpg)
Up next in our MA Fashion Textiles Technologies series, we speak to Shen Gao - a print and embroidery designer inspired by historical decorative objects and textiles. Using drawing, dye, hand screen print, and digital print techniques alongside hand and digital embroidery Shen aims to create beautiful decorative hand-crafted, sustainable textile pieces for a contemporary fashion market. Colour, gestural mark-making print effects, and handmade feathers and flowers are Shen’s signature features.
Tell us about your final project.
The work is inspired by the floral motifs found on the traditional dresses of Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) women, and the concept of the feathered garment, which represents freedom. When I looked at the intricate, delicate floral embroidery on their dresses, I wanted to combine prints and embroidery to create a collection of textiles that demonstrated skill and craftsmanship. I hope that the romantic florals, bright colours and feathers in the textile can help young women stay confident and comfortable in their lives. For some of the textile in the collection, I chose to draw directly on the fabrics to express a sense of freedom and freedom. For some of the hand embroidery, I wanted to express my love and respect for traditional Chinese embroidery.
![green and yellow painted fabric](https://ual-media-res.cloudinary.com/image/fetch/c_fill,f_auto,g_auto,q_auto/w_auto:breakpoints/https://www.arts.ac.uk/__data/assets/image/0014/452030/web-shen-gao-2.jpg)
![model sat on a rock in a blue fringed garment](https://ual-media-res.cloudinary.com/image/fetch/c_fill,f_auto,g_auto,q_auto/w_auto:breakpoints/https://www.arts.ac.uk/__data/assets/image/0015/452031/web-shen-gao-3.jpg)
Why did you want to focus on these themes and what is the importance of this?
I'm a museum lover and when I visited an exhibition called China's Hidden Century, I had my first chance to see the patterns on women's clothes in the Qing Dynasty up close. But I also learnt that Qing women were not free, and they were subordinate to men at that time. The exquisite dresses and heavy embroidery were also a symbol of men's status in society. So, I wanted to create fabrics with a free, modern aesthetic and craftsmanship combined with the feathered garment concept, representing freedom in Chinese culture. I hope the fine, comfortable fabrics I create will make today's young women feel more confident and freer when wearing them.
You experimented with hand-painted textiles in your work – can you explain more about this process and what it involves?
Hand-painting fabrics is a way for me to express my freedom. I wanted to depict floral patterns directly and freely by hand painting directly on the fabric. So, I tried experimenting with different fabrics. At first, I experimented with silk and cotton organza. After several attempts, I found that it worked best on sized natural fabrics. The process of controlling the ratio of dye to water and the details of the pattern became the main issues I wanted to address and explore in terms of technique. After recording the data several times, I was able to get a more satisfactory result.
![model in yellow printed and embroidered garment](https://ual-media-res.cloudinary.com/image/fetch/c_fill,f_auto,g_auto,q_auto/w_auto:breakpoints/https://www.arts.ac.uk/__data/assets/image/0016/452032/web-shen-gao-4.jpg)
![multicoloured floral print fabric](https://ual-media-res.cloudinary.com/image/fetch/c_fill,f_auto,g_auto,q_auto/w_auto:breakpoints/https://www.arts.ac.uk/__data/assets/image/0017/452033/web-shen-gao-5.jpg)
![Blonde model in country field wearing pink floral dress.](https://ual-media-res.cloudinary.com/image/fetch/c_fill,f_auto,g_auto,q_auto/w_auto:breakpoints/https://www.arts.ac.uk/__data/assets/image/0020/452009/shengao.png)
What have been the highlights of your time at LCF on this course?
I feel that I have gained a lot from this year of study. One of the most exciting things for me was in unit 2 and the enterprise co-op project, where we were able to visit embroidery and knitting studios and talk to people working in the industry. During my studies, I combined my expertise in printing and hand embroidery to make feathers, wanting to reduce the use of real feathers in the clothing industry. The combination of digital printing and embroidery of simulated feathers would allow the feathers I created to blend the design and the natural beauty of the feathers. This idea I also applied to my final graduation design.
What’s next for you after finishing your MA? How has this course influenced your career aspirations?
After finishing my degree, I would like to learn about the UK fabric industry. I would like to find a job in the London area that has something to do with textile print design, and I hope to gain a better understanding of the market needs and broaden my horizons in the process. During the course, I learned about some of the standards of workmanship in the industry and how to communicate with an audience as a designer. I want to get into the industry and practice what I have learned in the course as a designer.
Why should someone study MA Fashion Textiles Technologies at LCF?
This is a very inclusive and open programme that is not lacking in professional reading. In this course, students are encouraged to do what they want to do and to find their directions to explore. During the course, students have the opportunity to experiment with a variety of different machines and techniques. There are also a variety of tutors from the industry to talk about their experiences, and LCF has new equipment and plenty of space to experience.
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